Odd couple in South America on motorcycle tour

Titikaka Lake and Uros Island

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Above the clouds. 4800 meters above sea level and 14 degrees below zero

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Cross the border

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Is the second open mine largest in Chile. This mine, together with the Chuquicamata mine, make up the North Division of the Corporación del Cobre de Chile (Codelco), which annually produces more than 1300 000 tons of fine copper.

Tatio Geysers

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Impressive show, albeit with very cold (temperatures below zero) and 4321 meters above sea level.
To appreciate this wonder of nature, we need to arrive at the place before the five o'clock.
It is a geothermal field linked to Volcano Tatio. The geysers originate when they come into contact with a river frozen underground hot rocks.
In this place, the water in the form of steam, comes to the surface through fissures in the earth's crust, reaching a temperature of 85 º C, which reveals an impressive spectacle to ascend violent flows of steam that rise up to 10 metres tall.
Way back in the geysers, we stopped in Machuca, Acatameño village of 4000 meters high, devoted to grazing and agriculture.
En route we saw flamingos and vizcachas (giant rodents)

Aldea de Tulor

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It is a pre-Columbian village Acatameña rebuilt. The original village began to be built around 800 BC and was inhabited in his time by nearly 150 to 200 inhabitants. The material was used only clay and chañar beams, two important raw materials used by villagers until today

Pukara de Quitor

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Pre-Incan fortress. It dates back to the XIIth century. It was declared a National Monument in 1982.

VALLEY OF THE DEATH

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It is also located within the Cordillera de la Sal. It is a special place surrounded by curious ways eroded reddish patches and white. The high acidity and salinity of this environment makes it impossible the existence of life.

VALLE DE LA LUNA - Moon Valley-

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Declared wildlife Sanctuary, is located within the Cordillera de la Sal. In a place of desolation, the wind has carved gullies and mounds of salt, clay and plaster sculptures that seem so beautiful, like the Three Marias (or guards) the amphitheatre and other caverns. The age of these rock formations is approximately a million years ago!

SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA

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San Pedro de Atacama, is considered the archaeological capital of Chile and main centre of culture Likanantal, and for us the starting point for exploring the most remarkable attractions of Chile.
On the road course Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, we found the “Cordillera de la Sal”, an unusual spectacle of hills with unusual shapes and bright minerals. The road crosses the ridge of salt and begins to descend toward the gorgous Atacama Salt Flat, with an imposing view of Licancabur volcano and ayllus (territorial groupings of arable land and pre-Columbian origen, divided into sectors as kinship)

MEETING OF MOTORCYCLES. 11,OOO KILOMETRES

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We travelled to Calama along with other motorcycles; we surprised the influx of motorcycles on the road. When we arrived in the city, one person made signs to stop and we invite the "First Meeting of motorcycles" organized by the Club of the Desert Wolves, was now our friend Victor, who also has a surprising hospitality and confidence we invite stayed at home. Those days we enjoyed the company of his family, his daughter Roxana, which has a beautiful smile and contagious-and his son John and his girlfriend Stephanie were very pleasant stay at home.
At the meeting, characterized by big motorcycles, Harley Davison style, the prize went creditors "to the motorcycle coming from farther" obviously we did not have competition to our 11000 kilometres before arriving in Calama.
In those days Juan Carlos and another friend of the Club of the Desert Wolves, helped us with a service to our motorcycle.
Finally, in this city and in this meeting we met true friends, we hope to see again soon.

Crossing the desert

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We spent several days crossing the desert, visiting La Serena, Vallenar, Copiapo, Tal Tal and Antofagasta among other places.
Crossing the desert

Valparaiso and Viña del Mar

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In these cities we spend several days, trying unsuccessfully to get the navy boat to the island of Robinson Crusoe or Easter Island. However we enjoy this picturesque city declared a World Cultural Heritage and their famous elevators

March 2. We are in Santiago. 9000 Kilometres

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In Santiago, were hosted at the beautiful home of Claudia and Juan Manuel, who were super generous with us. We enjoy the city of Santiago and take to make a service to the motorcycle and processing visa for Gaby in Peru, and Don for Bolivia, in the latter requirements were so many and so overwhelming that we decided not to go.

Globetrotter in the route of Che Guevara

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http://www.diariolatribuna.cl/noticias.php?p_id=11585

REGION OF LAKES. 8300 KILOMETERS

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In the land, starting from Puerto Montt to Osorno, making stops and touring for the Lake Llanquihue, the second largest in Chile. The tour was with spectacular views, the Osorno Lake and beautiful vegetation. The next day, we went to relax in the hot springs there.
From Osorno to Temuco visited the Panguipulli lake, there is an interesting monument to the founders. It represented a Mapuche indigenous and a Capuchin missionary and pioneers of the place.

VISIT TO MARITIME FIORDOS AND GLACIERS IN THE SOUTH CHILE

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Tour of three days and four nights for the Patagonian channels, scene of extraordinary beauty and novels of Lord Byron and Jules Verne. This area was traditionally wild world of navigation on native peoples, (Alcalufes or Kaweskar). The trip is characterized by travelled countless channels, some very close, the narrowest of them is the Angostura White. The second day arrived at Puerto Eden where Kaweskar indigenous people live currently comprised by dozens of people only. Puerto Eden was created in the 1930's by the Air Force as a base for seaplanes flying from Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas. A few years later, here was confined population Kaweskar, formed by marine nomads who travelled the islands between the Gulf of Penas and the Magellan Strait. That same day experiencing the dreaded Gulf of Penas, which is the most exposed and moved the trip, approximately five hours of navigation. The Gulf of Penas was always sailed by the indigenous peoples Kaweskar in their traditional boats, but it was until 1884 that the schooner Ancud particular feat of crossing the Gulf of Penas after 4 months of sailing. The third day we visited the glacier Margarita, but for the weather we could not see in all its splendour.

TORRES DEL PAINE-CHILE. 7500 KILÓMETROS

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Puerto Natales, the city where dogs and the rainbow comes out daily, was our starting point for visiting Punta Arenas, Torres del Paine National Park and embark to Puerto Montt, visiting the Patagonian channels. Cueva del Milodon Road to Torres del Paine National Park, we made a stop at the Cave where he was found in 1895 the "Milodón Darwin," large mammal that disappeared about 10000 years ago!!. At the site, now declared Natural Monument there is a rough copy of the extinct animal.Torres del Paine It is a set of mountains called "Horns" and the spindly "towers" of granite. The mountains are crowned by glaciers and surrounded by lakes. It was appointed by the UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. On the way to the park we saw condors and guanacos. Finally we visited the Grey glacier,

Anyone who wants to live an extreme adventure in a motorcycle come to the end of the continent!

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Winds of more than 100 kilometres characterize the area!
On February 11, we fell in the motorcycle, which fortunately, the results is only Don very sore. The fall occurred near the border with Chile, which we tried to cross. For high winds and pain in the body of Don, we had to wait a few days in a small town : 28 de Noviembre, instead of Coal Mines. We stayed at the Hospedaje San Jorge, which had a bar that was visited daily by funny residents. The most interesting, is the Mr. Gonzalez, Gonzalitos for friends, and Gonza for the girls, he is an ex worker in the coal mine, who told us anecdotes of this.
On February 14, a good day to celebrate love and our arrival in Chile!
On the road from Puerto Natales to Puntarenas winds again threatened our stability. Wind from passing buses, was very common problem.

The new name of Don is Rony Ronds!!!

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The return of Ushuaia and headed to Chile, stop in Rio Gallegos again and we went back to Ferrero family’s house. Marcelo, call the newspaper La Opinion Austral, who made us a report on the trip. The day after we bought the paper and OH SURPRISE! Don is Rony Ronds! The journalist noted that not even remotely understood, which was the name of Don, nevertheless gave him our card, and the motorcycle our names also appear. No comment…

February 4 USHUAHIA. END OF THE WORLD!!!!

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Winds 120 kilometres. Magellan Strait
Ushuahia is the southernmost city in the world, the city where all the tourists want to go, which ironically a hundred years ago, nobody would have wanted to know since it a was jail and subsequent military prison! Well, it now has become a landmark for visitors to Argentina. We then crossed the Beagle Channel-so named by the boat commanded by Fitz Roy and Perker King- sailing towards Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse, -mentioned in the stories of Jules Verne-, and visiting islands birds, inhabited by royal and imperial cormorants, the island of wolves and penguins.
We also visited the national park Tierra de Fuego, which we accessed by the train at the end of the world and visited the Martial glacier.

January 29-2Febrero RIO GALLEGOS. FERRERO FAMILY

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Rio Gallegos was our "operations centre" to move toward Calafate and Ushuaia, in addition for the first time this in place to have a service done to our motorcycle, which had the second flat tire, and this time the brothers Stout, very kind stopped and took me to Rio Gallegos to seek a crane.
Here we met our mechanic and now best friend Marcelo Ferrero and his family. The family Ferrero, owner of Commercial Santa Cruz, they opened the door of their home and their hearts also, which we are confident they will be friends for life. Thus Marcelo, Mariela and her daughters, Janina , Maria Luz and Valentina became our family every day we were in this city. We enjoyed everything that we did with them, from Don making handmade pasta with Marcelo and Gaby playing and put costumes with Luz and Vale. Talks with Mariela and the Janu will be remembered forever. Thank you for everything family Ferrero!

25-28 January. 5000 Kilometres. CALAFATE AND PERITO MORENO GLACIER

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The most spectacular known in Argentina is the Perito Moreno Glacier, located in the Los Glaciares National Park, we went there from the tourist city of Calafate.
We went trekking on the Perito Moreno Glacier and witnessed one of the famous breaks of ice of the front of the glacier, which gave life to the Argentine Lake. Wonderful experience!

21-23 January. SAN JULIAN

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We stopped in this peculiar and small city, where we visited the "Nao Victoria" replica of the boat commanded by Fernando de Magallanes in 1520 arrived in this port city, before crossing the strait that bears his name and which connects the Pacific Ocean with the Atlantic.
In San Julian we were hosted at the Hotel Asturias it is more than 100 years old, the hotel now is characterized by accommodate of rural workers. “The famous gauchos" with whom we engaged in many fun talks.

17 JANUARY. WE LOVE THE PENGUINS!

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Undoubtedly one of the great things about Argentina was learning about of Magellanic penguins. In Punta Tombo we walked among them, and received one or two bites also.
Gaby spend much time try training penguins to move their heads in unison with her. Well, in fact, the penguins could not focus well, so they moved their heads so they can focus better. Thanks Paula! By giving us this wonderful gift and being able to meet these fun new friends.

13-19 January 3500 kilometres TRELEW IS MOST FRIENDLY CITY IN THE WORLD!

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We stopped in the small city of Trelew to perform a service to the motorcycle, which is now our friend Gustavo Buse of BUSE MOTORCROSS treated us like kings! Trough Buse also met our friends, the James family. Eva and Ariel opened the door of their house and their friendship, spend time with them very much fun and always felt loved and comfortable. The neighbourhood was the friendliest in the world. We met our friend Paula-owner of the Internet and DVD rent- who kindly led us to Punta Tambo (80 kilometres each way) to met our favourite friends from Patagonia: penguins! After we had dinner at the home of Paula and her boyfriend Mathias. Ana, owner the store and Paula’s mother they were always very kind to us.
Finally, we are always very warm in this city, where the last day we enjoy with an “asado” workshop of Buse, where they had many friends we had made in the neighbourhood: Francisco and Carlos, workers at the carnage and supermarket respectively. Carlos is a talented artist and fan of the Star Wars gave to Don a spectacular drawing, and had made him sign posters and souvenirs of R2D2. Finally, we made many great new friends in this city, we always retain for a lifetime.

January 11-PENINSULA VALDEZ

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Peninsula Valdez is a protected area very popular for sightings of the whales from Puerto Piramides, a place where we are staying to visit the peninsula where we can see lions and elephant seals.

January 9. WITHOUT GASOLINE

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6 Kilometres before arriving in Carmen de Patagones, we ran out of gasoline! I did not say I told you!! But, I told Don, fill the tank, when we went through last gas station. But, he said "I am sure that we will reach the next station and almost did missing by 6 Kilometres!!, WE WERE WITHOUT GASOLINE! Fortunately, Tatto and Leandro stopped very soon, because they can see poor Don pushing the motorcycle. Very kindly took me to the nearest station and I returned to where Don was waiting. Also, in this city, Mauro, excellent mechanic helped us with the battery of the motorcycle.

January 7-MONTE HERMOSO

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We went to the archaeological site "Pisadero" showing human footprints 7000 years old and we witnessed new discoveries. Additionally visited the Recalada lighthouse, the highest in South America.

MAR DEL PLATA January 2-6. KILOMETRO 1800

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From this place we enjoy its port and beaches, We remember Alfonsina Storni… -She committed suicide in this place- "Pude amar esta noche con piedad infinita,
pude amar al primero que acertara a llegar" ...La caricia perdida.
The best thing about this place was that we met Mark and Caro, who gave us conversation and beautiful friendship, which we hope will keep forever. We visited the enchanted forest, in the hitherto unknown energy allows the perfect balance of 2 sticks forming a T. Maybe in this place is good for Gaby practised yoga, balance problems are over!

December 31 WAITING FOR THE NEW YEAR IN TANDIL

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At last! After travelling about 800 Kilometres, we stopped in Tandil! Nice place to wait for the New Year. We arrived super tired and almost at 9 o clock. At eleven o clock we leave the hotel to find a place to eat. Surprise: the entire city closed! We walked several streets in the centre and not found a place to eat. In the city there is another couple -Bety and Carlos-who like us, were looking for a place to dine and it turns out they were hosted at the same hotel we are! So we look for a restaurant together and spent nice time! Only a small incident, the spoiled the evening, the dish of Gaby’s, a dead fly was decorating her delicious dinner, and after making the complaint and claims of the case, the wine and champagne were free!!! Was not so serious after all!!

December 29 DRIVING TO SOUTH. KILOMETRO 900

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And with our national board (registration and patent Argentina) started the journey to the south, passing through Rio Cuarto, and travelling much of the Argentine pampas, characterized this route, for nothing! Miles and miles driving observed where only grass and cows. Abandoned manufacturing and business products of the crisis of 2001, gave the places visited the look of ghost towns. Very tiring journey, which stopped frequently to take a nap. We wanted to reach a point fun to spend the New Year so driving and driving hundreds of miles without finding a place for fun place for wait and enjoy 2008.

22-27 December. TRAVELLING BY CORDOBA

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We arrived in Altagracia, starting point of the trip. We visited the house-museum of Che Guevara, which gave the flag official output. We liked a lot Altagracia, travelled on horseback its quaint streets, and after starting the Traslasierra region, roads most beautiful trails Argentina!
The Christmas Eve spent at Mina Clavero-instead of the most beautiful visited throughout the country- 25 we continue our journey, and we had the first flat tire. Fortunately, we helped Don Juan, which led us to the nearest town, which of course to be December 25 everything was closed! So we had to wait until another day to continue the journey, and our Christmas meal consisted of beer, potatoes and bubble gum!
On December 26 towards San Marcos Mountains, a place characterized by the presence of hippies, organic products, development of alternative therapies and similes. Very fun place, we are staying in one place directed, designed and decorated according to Feng Shui and visited the Museum hippie-heralded as the only world-… its creator, great fun! For an eclectic list of the most important social movements with the hippie movement-passing from Christ until Ghandi and Tolstoi! The like-in short, fun place.

December 14. WE ARRIVED IN CORDOBA. MAFALDA IS RIGHT

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Our suspicions are confirmed, it is not easy to buy the motorcycle, or new or used. The people offer us alternatives for obtaining fast. Shops and sellers, and even government offices say that as foreigners can not buy the motorcycle, we need a legal residence in the country, and a number of national identification (ID) How? We just want to buy a motorcycle and travelling in the country. Does not intend or residence or nationality, nor travel with Argentine passport. The people offer us solutions ranging absurdist: Buy on behalf of another person. Mr. We are travellers, we do not know anyone in Argentina and although I know I do not want give any responsibility an other person. Mmm… So, you can not. Mr. We intend to cross into Chile, if the motorcycle is not in our name, how will I be able to cross the border? Mmm… in this case the person, who lends his name, must accompany us to the border and cross with you… How? We just want to buy a motorcycle and travelling in Argentina!
Mr. We are travellers, we haven’t legal residence, we do not live here and we come here as tourists, how can I buy a motorcycle? Mmmm... You must bring proof of legal address of another person; I repeat that I do not live here… Mmm… So, invent one. How? Mr. We do not want to lie, we just want to buy a motorcycle and go travelling in Argentina. Mmmm… Go to the n ext line (300 people waiting) and asked where he could give the information required? How? We must take our turn 320 people ahead in front us (We keep as a souvenir) in the office you are wrong (We were in the ANSES) needs to go to AFIP… arrived at the AFIP, you need to go to another AFIP,… you need to go ask the Registry of Patents …
MAFALDA IS RIGHT! This Argentine bureaucracy, equitable to the turtle Mafalda! Where officials do not know any procedure and is not concerned for knowing…
At last, after 6 offices visited, and talked to the technical departments, legal assistance and similars (and my good qualities as a lawyer ... this is Gaby) got on the identification number and test our residence with the hotel bill … lot, but much easier than a "barrida" of Tango.
With our newly acquired "Argentine official documents" which seems to us very well, gives us legitimacy, but that gives us the sense of the legacy of dictatorships-the desire of the absolute control of citizens… MONITORING AND PUNISH.
At last! We can buy our motorcycle! A week after we bought the motorcycle in place that gives us give it to another day of purchase, although not to believe that our problems bureaucratic ends here, now has to wait for police verification, the registration of patents, the delivery of plate, and so on.
We are tired! The city of Cordoba are so pleased, but we bite the feet to start the tour, we decided to go the December 22 in the motorcycle without plates or paper (not see that the police) tell us sellers are days of Christmas, not believe they have problems, we appeal to us that if a police have feelings of compassion own at the time, and we do not remove our newly acquired motorcycle.

Mafalda is 6 years old and is always worried about the global situation
and plans to be an interpreter at the U.N. when she's older so she can
translate politicians' insults into compliments and bring about world
peace. Strong patriot, wise, progressive, loves the Beatles and hates
soup. Has a turtle named Bureaucracy.

December 10: We arrived in Buenos Aires. VIVA EL TANGO!

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We enjoyed the wine and tango, trying to learn, not technical but we enjoy with heart. Also, we enjoy Piazzola, we feel Gardel! We are in the neighbourhood of La Boca, and we enjoy what bohemian site. We started to look for options to buy the motorcycle, brands, prices in order… possibilities, and we began to realize the obstacles that face us later for the purchase of the motorcycle, travelled by train, subway, buses, walked in the sun stabbing of Buenos Aires, exhausted and in order not to lose the goal we travelled to Cordoba.

Ver más fotos http://picasaweb.google.com/viajeche/BUENOSAIRES

WHO IS WHO?

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Don and Gaby are an odd couple which share a lot of dreams, the most smallest of these is this trip, where two diaries will be written, two visions, two perceptions, but only one yearning to share stars, mountains, seas and roads. They are a very unusual pair, with very diverse lives, origins and different cultures. The age, the language, nationality… all those things that made them apparently different because they born, lived and raised up in unlike circumstances and ambiences, but the truth is that they are a pair of souls which have been re-cognized, two minds that have found and two hearts that have fallen in love…

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THE LIFE DE DON BURNS IN 15 POINTS!!

Ran away to see at 14. Still running at 70!!!!
Learned scuba dive at 13 in Acapulco, Mexico.
Ran guns to Castro at 14.
First time in Polynesia at 15.
Raced a car at Daytona Beach at 19.
Drove the length of Central America at 22.
Was at North Arctic Circle at 23.
Was alone with a mad man in a sailboat for 57 days at 26.
Spent the next 14 years in Polynesia, Melanesia and Micronesia with his two daughters who were born and raised on his schooner.
Owned his own plane at 42.
Worked on R2D2 for the first Star Wars movie.
Made films for the 3M Company at 50.
Spent the last 20 years living on board and sailing his beloved 95 years old sailboat “Fiona”
Don was in Ecuador and Galapagos islands during the last year and now he is in Panama where he is building a vacation home for his children and grandchildren.

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GABY OLGUÍN of 34 years, is mexican lawyer, has been during half of her life some of these things:
From Punk girl, actress of theater, rural teacher, adviser and member of indigenous organizations and Zapatista activist in Mexico; poet, investigator, belly dancer in a Moroccan restaurant, official at a United Nations Agency and at the Organization of American States, but always and mainly have only been a dreamer spirit.
She has worked for the rights of the indigenous peoples, women, union movement and the children in Mexico and Central America, always on the side of the most dispossessed.
Gaby has written 17 books, including one of poems; and numerous articles in magazines of Latin America.
At the moment she is an independent consultant of international organizations, and also she tries to be a disciplined student of yoga and to become to the veganism.

The Route

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